Three Days in Paris: Feasts and High Fashion
Book recommendations, picture opportunities, locations, food, and more from my trip a few years ago.
Paris has always been an alluring hub of glamor, charm, romance - but my wanderlust for the location is ever growing since I reached my 20s and learned that it’s okay to indulge in luxury every so often. My first (and only) trip so far was a couple of years ago, around 18, with my mum. Even as somebody who isn’t all that interested in/connection to fashion, I remember it feeling surreal to be breathing the same air as those at Paris Fashion Week, which holds the essence of Parisian elegance in its palm. Of course these are not the only reasons to visit - France is swimming in artistic and historical culture, and when you combine this with its romantic spirit and highly commendable cuisine, it’s the perfect trip for any time of year.
My recommendations are a mix of affordable suggestions, and one or two more costly options that in my opinion are well worth splurging on for the unforgettable experience.
So… here comes my first contribution; a shortlist of novels that totally enhance the Parisian spirit for me, and just made it that much more exciting to live it for myself for a few days. Obviously I didn’t read all of these while in the city itself - I can barely finish a singular book in a month… But having read them already, it enriched the fantasy even more so.
The Paris Apartment - Lucy Foley.
416 pages. An enticing thriller/mystery about the disappearance of a journalist in an apartment in Paris. Published 2022.
A Waiter in Paris - Edward Chisholm.
384 pages. An autobiography about a waiter and aspiring writer trying to fall into place with Parisian civilization. Published 2023.
Don’t Be a Tourist in Paris - Vanessa Grall
245 pages. The ‘director’s cut of seeing Paris like the movies’. A travel guide of insider tips and fascinating anecdotes. Published 2017.
Paris Dreaming - Katrina Lawrence
368 pages. Katrina is an Australian beauty journalist who has had an obsession with Paris since the age of five. The city becomes her guide through a lifelong journey of self-discovery. Published 2017.
Paris Letters - Janice Macleod
258 pages. The romantic ideal we all have of packing your bags, selling your stuff and moving to Paris. This will inspire your trip, and what’s more Macleod has several books on Paris including a 12 month undated planner which is perfect for travel. Published 2014.
Feel free to check out the rest of my book recommendations, themed or otherwise, on fff!
Day One:
Our train from London King’s Cross arrived in Paris around midday, making the sum of our journey about 2 hours long. The Eurostar is, in my opinion, far more expedient than any restless airport (of course travelling during term time is a big benefit). With a good selection of train station snacks and a book in hand you hardly get that draining post-travel feeling that looms on the day of arrival. I found this a great excuse to jump into leisurely pursuit given the little time I’d have there.
Be very cautious around the station - it is notorious for theft, so ensure you have an eye on your belongings at all times. There are direction boards around the station that will lead you to taxi cabs - the queue can get filled up pretty quick so I recommend dashing there if you can.
We stayed at Hôtel Delavigne, which has several room options depending on your budget (and considering I went with the cheapest, all are more than satisfactory in my opinion). It is also within perfect distance from all the essentials: cafe’s, restaurants, bakeries, bookstores, the beautiful Jordin du Luxembourg, Odéon train station, etc. (More on all of those shortly!)
The staff there were wonderful, and very kindly forgiving of my poor French speaking… Going above and beyond to ensure we had the perfect stay, they passed on many recommendations and offered to book any transportation or reservations we needed. If you do book a stay at Delavigne, it’s good to be aware of their handy, and free of charge, bag storage which you can use as long as you need to before your arrival slot/after your departure slot. Previous guests will also often leave spare bus or train passes behind the desk if they have any spare on their day of departure, so if you’re lucky you may be passed on a few by staff if there are any on hand!
If you’re like myself and prefer getting your bearings before venturing elsewhere first, I would certainly recommend making Luxembourg park your first stop. It’s a four minute walk from the hotel and has not only the most beautiful fountain and gardens, but a great brasserie overlooking it all. You can grab a takeaway from their little hatch, in which case you must try the legendary hot chocolate and whipped cream if it’s cold out (although it warrants consumption in any weather), or you can sit in at La Table du Luxembourg for food, situated just by the basketball court. They also offer a gourmet buffet on Sundays which is a little pricier but highly acclaimed and beautifully presented, it is the epitome of stylish and exquisite Parisian catering set right in the centre of one of their most beloved tourist attractions. You can pre-book a table here.
My most treasured memory of this area however is the number of bookstores that occupy every front and corner of Rue de Médicis, with stands often spilling out onto the streets in spring/summer and an impressive array of books in different languages. Gilbert Joseph Paris 6 Librairie is located in a beautiful and bustling area, and to me is the charming French equivalent of a London high street store. The Red Wheelbarrow is my personal favourite however, with lovely, attentive staff and exceptionally aesthetic presentation. You can check for info and their new arrivals on their website. They also currently host storytime and reading hours on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, which is a wonderful idea if you’re on your trip with little ones!
Treize Bakery is also nearby and a gorgeous stop for some essential French pastries. With a seating area out front that spills into the road, you can appreciate a view of both the gardens and the theatre, or alternatively opt for an eight minute walk to Les Insouciants. Do not be fooled by the interior’s ‘evening bar’ setup, they offer incredible breakfast and brunch, pastry and coffee deals, fresh fruit and unforgettable pancakes. Outdoor seating is available on their corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain, and it’s also worth noting there are rental bikes available just down Rue Danton in case you’d prefer to continue your adventures in quintessential Parisian style.
The Louvre is also only fifteen minutes from this area. Though you may feel too pressed for time to fully immerse in this crucial experience on your day of arrival, it’s worth knowing what’s nearby for whenever you choose to visit, for which you may want to dedicate a full day. I personally booked our entry tickets for 2 PM on day one, which left us sufficient time to walk leisurely around the museum (and the gift shop) before closing time. I would advise buying tickets straight from the Louvre website, as opposed to booking guided tours and such through alternative sites. General admission is €22 and under 18’s enter free - they recommend booking specific time slots as you can imagine the high demand for an attraction such as itself! With regard to different galleries’ availability, you can find a schedule list here on their website. Of course the tour de force, so to speak, is Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, located in the Louvre’s largest room, Salle des États, in the Denon wing. The Greek Antiques and Medieval Louvre galleries, however, I could have wandered around for the entirety of the afternoon. Elegant sculptures cover the full expanse, and you’ll often find artists scattered around sketching for hours making it all the more immersive.
As the day came to a close, we returned to the streets of Rue de Médicis near our hotel, stumbling upon an unforgettable meal at Au Petit Suisse from a table on their balcony-like second floor overlooking the cosy restaurant. They also offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, with various cuisines and amazing coffee depending on when you visit. The staff were extremely accommodating and, again, more forgiving of my poorly attempted French than I was deserving. Alongside the charcuterie boards and country bread croques, their main dishes vary by weekday - check out their menu online here.
Day Two:
The second (and second-to-last) day of our trip began by exploring Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques. Admittedly part of the attraction was finding Netflix’s filming locations for ‘Emily In Paris’, but it’s worth a visit for SAS Boulangerie Moderne Rabineau alone. While our hotel did offer breakfast - various preserves on fresh bread and croissants, coffee and fresh orange juice in a charming underground cavern-like restaurant - I couldn’t pass up a pastry here as soon as we arrived. They offer both savoury and sweet options as well as drinks. I’m counting down the days until my next raspberry custard tart there…
Alternatively, TRAM Cafe is only minutes away and is the perfect stop for book lovers. Their coffee options are endless, not to mention the stunningly presented lunch choices and pastries. If you’re looking for a walk with your confectionary, the Panthéon is only a seven minute walk and a remarkable monument to tick off your list. Entry requires a pre-booked ticket online, however the outside area itself is nice enough to wander around before you hit the main streets of Rue des Écoles. Ten minutes in this direction is a Shakespeare and Company, another ideal stop for book lovers. It happens to be right beside the Seine, from which you can look out onto various landmarks and, as you cross the bridge, see the ‘love locks’ fastened to the barriers. Crossing over, we passed through the scenic garden that is the Square of Saint-Jacques Tower. As you approach this side of the river you may gain a sense you’re entering a hub of creativity, arts and fashion. It’s largely populated with aesthetic tourist attractions, shops, cafes and restaurants, where you can further indulge in the simple grace of Parisian normalities. Any one of Paris’ twelve covered passages in this area are worth exploring. Though several are near-identical in exterior, they are home to various businesses, each curating a slightly different mien. Les Passages Couverts de (Paris 1) and The Passage of the Grand-Cerf (Paris 2) are just over a ten minute walk. Some fuse historic architecture with modern art and decoration with a cosy, vintage ambiance, while others bask you in splendour with their marble floors and luxury fashion outlets. The intimate and picturesque Passage des Panoramas is also just a little further up, and, having been built in 1799, is one of the oldest sheltered walkways in Paris.
Nearby on the streets of Rue Léopold Bellan is the perfect spot for an affordable and chic lunch at Zouzou. The cuisine is fresh and seasonal, and the menu renewed daily depending on the fruits and vegetables currently in season. I thoroughly enjoyed not one but two coffees here (for once a wise decision that fueled me for the cold evening walk home), and it’s perfectly situated amongst markets, souvenir stores, boutiques and designer retailers.
If you’re a museum fanatic who hasn’t yet gotten their fill from the Louvre alone, Musée Grévin, though lesser known, is a charming wax museum nearby. It’s conveniently situated right by the Grands Boulevards underground station, and is most likely the more family friendly option. With models of iconic animated characters as well as depictions of French history and breathtaking ceiling design, it has something in it for everyone. Though there’s not as much to ascertain compared to a museum, to the right is the highly acclaimed tourist attraction Oasis d'Aboukir, a beautiful sight not worth missing. At the intersection of Rue d’Aboukir and Rue des Petits Carreaux, this vertical garden garnishes a 25m high wall and makes a stunning photo location. Visitors have said the wall remains green and lush in even the coldest months, so this unknown treasure can be seen at any time and is conveniently situated by a variety of coffee and clothing shops. If you’re on the lookout for some vintage fashion steals, there are tons of stores across Rue d’Aboukir that you’ll love. Re.love Vintage Paris is just opposite and has a beautiful selection of quality vintage clothing - you can also find their Etsy store here.
By the early evening, we’d finally reached our most anticipated engagement yet - a reservation at Le Grand Colbert. If you’re a Nancy Meyers fan (The Holiday, What Women Want, The Parent Trap, The Intern…), or simply enjoyed her 2003 rom-com ‘Something’s Gotta Give’, you might recognise the location from Diane Keaton, Jack Nicholson and Keanu Reeves’ dinner scene. We were lucky enough to have secured the table with our booking well in advance (highly recommended!), which is graced with an original clapperboard from the set. It certainly is one of the best tables as it is though; in the centre of the restaurant soaking up the warm, elegant atmosphere. The staff were extremely friendly and gave trustworthy recommendations, for which I was all ears given the supremacy of the menu - the onion soup starter and chicken main dish is a must.
As our second evening was wrapping up, we opted for an uber back to our hotel from the restaurant, given we’d eaten our body weight in food. Again, if you’re on a budget, I would recommend designating a cab ride for travelling to and from the station/airport, and one for your evening meal of choice, that way you get enough steps in the rest of the trip and don’t risk too many expenses.
After a 15-20 minute trip we found ourselves cosy again after extensive exploring, with our bags (just about) fully packed in preparation for our final day. God knows much rest is needed after sitting on and wrestling with your suitcase, as you run the risk of busting the zipper after you swore you wouldn’t buy more clothes in Paris.
Day Three:
…The dreaded final day. But it seemed Paris’ parting gift to us was fantastic weather for the much anticipated Eiffel Tower visit. Waiting til day of departure to see the renowned landmark may seem like an odd choice, but it was ultimately decided for us given the previous day’s on-and-off rain. Also, the toureiffel.paris website has a thorough attendance and peak hours page. I’d highly recommend checking it out as you begin to organise your trip dates - it lists all the busiest slots, school holidays and months based on their attendance statistics throughout the year.
From Hôtel Delavigne, the trip is about a 20 minute bus journey. As previously mentioned, the staff had free bus tickets on hand from ex-guests who had kindly given in their spares, so check on this just in case!
Whether you’re choosing to visit the second floor/summit, or simply just walk around the perimeters as we did, Champ-De-Mars is the perfect post-Eiffel-Tower-visit garden walk. In summer people settle on the grass here before what is arguably the most cinematic view in France. If you continue walking, however, you’ll reach Av. de la Bourdonnais to the left of the gardens. The street is brimming with souvenir shops, cafes and markets, but being situated by one of the most popular tourist attractions in the world, their prices are strategically excessive. Luckily for you, given all the overwhelming choices, I was intent on speed-reading through reviews for about twenty different brasseries before we made our decision... If you’re looking for a takeaway option so you’re free to walk around some more (though they also offer sit in), Sandwicherie is a quintessentially Parisian option with their choice of baguettes, crepes and croques, and what’s more they have rave reviews from both tourists and locals. The seemingly more showy restaurants such as Le Champ De Mars and Cafe Le Dome that mask it may have idyllic layouts and varied menus, but you’ll soak up just as much of the atmosphere here without going outside your budget…
Jeusselin Traiteur is another great takeaway option a little further down towards Rue Cler. Their catering spills out onto the pavement, and they offer a huge variety of savoury and sweet options from quiches, to meats, to fruit tarts and croissants. A lot of customers say it’s the perfect place to grab yourself some takeaway bits for a summer picnic by the Eiffel Tower, which will be the first on my to do list once I return during the warmer seasons!
By the time we’d picked up lunch here we were cutting it close to our late afternoon train home, and so made our way to pick up our bags via Rue De Grenelle. For any of my fellow fashion fiends, the YSL headquarters sit about a fifteen minute walk down the road, and their store a ten minute walk more from there, along with various other luxury brands along Rue de Verneuil.
Though a little more expensive, Pâtisserie Michalak, Saint-Germain-des-prés was the perfect final treat to ourselves to pick up on the route back to the hotel. Every store across Rue du Vieux Colombier just happened to be my biggest weakness the moment we were leaving - both this pastry shop and Pierre Hermé; Aesop; The Kooples; Andiata; the beautifully situated Comptoir Des Cotonniers… Luckily I didn’t fold, but had we had enough time, I would have had Parisian dresses, perfumes and croissants galore (with what money, I don’t know). After narrowly escaping the various stores’ seduction, we made it back to our hotel to collect our bags where the staff had very kindly booked our taxi to Gare du Nord with no added charge. We bid farewell to the wonderful manager, and settled into the taxi with a pledge to return.
I have yet to go back, so trust when I do I’ll be asking for new recommendations!! ⬇️
Let me know if you visit any of the above destinations on your trip, or if there’s anywhere special I’ve missed on my first way round.
As always, thank you so much for reading aliens. Have a wonderful weekend (and Easter if you celebrate)!
All my freakin love
Alsoooooo if you’re at all a ROLE MODEL and/or Lizzy McAlpine fan, I just released a cover of ‘So Far Gone’ on Soundcloud, feel free to give it a listen below!